I love smoked haddock, and one of the best ways to eat it is in the form of the Scottish soup, Cullen Skink, from the village of Cullen on the Moray Firth, near Aberdeen. It can be a bit creamy, though, and I wanted to incorporate more veg than just the usual onion or leek and potato. So, I lightened it and turned it into a chowder tonight, with chunks of potato, red pepper and some tiny fresh corn niblets from a fresh ear of corn - all from Riverford, of course. Just sweat a finely chopped onion or leek in a little butter, add the chopped veg and I like a chopped chilli too. Just cover with an equal quantity of veg stock and milk, and simmer gently until the potato is tender. Add chunks of good, undyed smoked haddock, simmer gently for an further 5 minutes until fish is cooked. Sprinkle with chopped chives or parsley and ladle into bowls. Serve with crusty bread - a hearty, warming complete meal for a dreich night, as Aberdonians would say. And they should know, they have enough of them.