Or Stracotto di Manzo, to give it the full Italian glory. This is never going to win prizes for looks, but it tastes wonderful, and leftovers make the best ragu for pasta the next day. This takes the cheap and lean cut of rolled brisket and turns it into a melting, tender treat. Simply brown a boned, rolled joint of brisket in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil and a knob of butter - do this gently, on all sides, until well-coloured. Add a large chopped onion, and 4 or 5 chopped celery stalks, along with a couple of sliced carrots and 3 cloves of garlic - I used a whole head of 'wet' garlic. Add a jar of passata or a tin of good tomatoes, pureed in a blender, along with half a bottle of good Italian red wine - if you wouldn't drink it, please don't cook with it! A couple of bayleaves and some sprigs of thyme, along with some salt and pepper, and there you have it. Cover the casserole tightly and braise in a lowish oven (130C fan) for three to four hours. Carve and serve with the sauce, which I like to blend beforehand. For the ragu, simply shred or chop the meat and mix with remaining sauce, reheat and stir through chunky rigatoni pasta. It also makes a great lasagne.