I first made these back in 2009 when I was doing the Nigel Slater Kitchen Dairies Challenge, and I can't think why I don't make them more often. We are fond of breakfast pancakes, but this version is so much more fluffy and light than usual mixtures, that I think it will be my default setting from now on. The following quantity yields 9 pancakes - enough for three people or two very greedy ones. You will guess which of these categories we fell into, I am sure. You can double the quantities if you are feeding a crowd. They are best eaten straight from the pan, but they do 'hold' ok wrapped in a clean tea towel on a plate over smmering water - they might deflate a little but are still light and fluffy. Anyway, the recipe. Have a non-stick pan heating over a medium heat. Mix 125g ricotta cheese, a heaped tablespoon of plain flour, 2 level tablespoons of sugar, the grated zest of an orange, 2 egg yolks and one tablespoon of melted butter. Whisk the egg whites until stiff, then fold into the batter with a metal spoon - don't beat it, but gently stir through. Heat a dessertspoon of sunflower oil and a good knob of butter in the pan until sizzling, then spoon in tablespoons of the batter. You should get 3 to 4 pancakes in the pan, depending on size. After about 2 minutes, when the underside is golden brown, flip them over quickly and confidently to cook on the other side for another minute or so - they will rise up beautifully like little souffles, which indeed is what they are. Serve hot from the pan, dusted with a little icing sugar, and with the peeled and sliced orange, some sliced banana and a little blueberry jam, warmed through with a splash of orange juice. Or maple syrup. A weekend treat! You can add blueberries to the batter if you like, but we're having a blueberry pud tonight, so I will do this another time.