We have just spent a lovely few days with our friends in Lancashire, where we were treated to some fabulous meat dishes, including an amazing shoulder of lamb cooked for 21 hours. But I find myself longing for some non-meat dishes, and the tangy spritz of celeriac remoulade did the trick. Remoulade is really just a posh coleslaw, so don't be put off by the name. There are numerous recipes on the web - the one thing I'd say is that some of them are a bit generous with the mustard. This dish should have a refreshing bite from the Dijon, not a mule kick in the head. I peeled and shredded half a large celeriac - try to get long elegant julienne matchsticks, a mandolin grater helps but patience and a sharp knife will do, too. Blanch the strips of celeriac in a pot of boiling salted water for just 30 seconds or so, drain and refresh in cold water. Drain again. Now, either make your own mayo or get a jar of good old Hellman's - you need about 2 heaped tablespoons of it. Put it in a bowl, season with a little salt, black pepper, the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoon of smooth Dijon mustard and half a teaspoon of wholegrain mustard. Mix well. If it is thick, thin it with a tablespoon of milk. Adjust the mustard to your own tastes. Now mix in a tablespoon of very finely chopped parsley, and fold the cool, drained celeriac through it. Alllow to sit for an hour or so to develop the flavours, then serve with good smoked salmon, some freshly cooked beetroot and some rocket. We were lucky to get wild River Lune smoked salmon from the Port of Lancaster Smokehouse and it was wonderful - tender, dry, delicate. A fine supper indeed.