
Like rhubarb, a taste for gooseberries has only come to me as I have got older. I now appreciate their sharp, tart edge after a roast dinner, especially when tempered with a modest spoonful of Nigel's eggy Mascarpone cream. Perfect after the roast lamb of the previous recipe, and a starter of mini salmon and dill fishcakes stashed in the freezer (see recipe #74). The gooseberries, of course, came from the local PYO at Medley Manor Farm in Binsey, on the West edge of Oxford - a most marvellous place.